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Controlling Weeds

Who doesn’t have weed problems? There are some things that can be done to prevent weed problems before they get overwhelming without resorting to typical yard chemicals. Certain types of weeds can indicate problems with your soil which if corrected may eliminate or reduce those types of weeds. Visit http://oregonbd.org/weeds-2/ Pre-emergent (prevents germination of seeds): corn gluten meal, sold under various brand names, has been shown to prevent seed germination as well as the chemical products sold for this purpose. Corn gluten meal should be applied in the cool of spring (when daffodils are blooming) and for even better control again in the cool of fall. It is safe and will add some nitrogen to your soil. Avoid using on newly seeded areas or just before seeding. It may be necessary to wait six weeks before planting seeds but plants can be planted at anytime. When weeds are small scrape the soil with an action hoe, stirrup hoe, or Winged Weeder. This cuts the weeds off right at soil level

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Controlling Slugs & Snails

I am often asked about damage to a plant where the client has not seen any pest. Sometimes this is caused by slugs and snails which are often out at night or early morning snacking on plants. Slugs and snails damage may be reduced by changing how you water. Since they require damp ground cutting back on watering when possible can reduce their numbers. It is common for landscapes to be over watered. Most plants in most growing conditions do not need to be watered daily or even every other day. Some other types of control: Beer or a mix of honey or molasses with bakers yeast placed in container. I think this works best if placed in a bottle that is then placed at an angle to reduce the chance of rain or sprinklers diluting the mixture. These will need to be checked often because of evaporation. Iron phosphate slug baits work very well and are not harmful to people, pets, birds, or wildlife. Sluggo and Escar-Go! are a couple brands I have used. Nutribiotic (Grapefruit seed extract) mixed 5 drops per cup of warm water. Spray on slugs and snails. Nutribiotic may also help if drizzled around plants for a barrier. After eating cantaloupe, watermelon, or grapefruit, place the rind upside down outside with the edge propped up. Go out later and you should find many slugs or snails inside. Barriers can also reduce slug and snail damage. Small bits of hair (people or pet hair), crushed eggshells, sharp sand (not play sand) are all unpleasant for them and can protect your plants. Diatomaceous Earth (also called DE) works as a barrier and a killer as long as it does not get wet. Be sure to buy the garden type (not the kind for swimming pools) and read

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Container Gardening Tips

When growing plants in containers there are some things to keep in mind for the best chance of success. Choose a container 2”larger than the pot the plant is already in. Choose a pot that can handle temperature changes. If the pot will stay outside year round choose a material that can handle these changes. Fiberglass, resin, concrete, and heavy duty plastic will last longer than unsealed terra cotta. Provide drainage. If the container does not have drainage drill holes in the bottom so water does not sit in the bottom of the pot. A unsealed terra cotta pot will allow water to evaporate through the sides of the pot.  This may be desirable when planting cactus and succulents especially if there is a chance of overwatering. This may not be the best thing for hotter weather and non drought tolerant plants. Use potting soil –not garden soil. Potting soil will drain better and not contain weed seeds. Some brands I like are Dr. Earth, Black Gold, and Patio Plus. Rocks or gravel are not necessary for drainage and may actually prevent water from draining. The only time I would recommend something in the bottom of the pot is if there is a chance the pot could fall over or blow over or if it is a huge pot that would require a large amount of potting soil. To weight the pot down put a few bricks or large rocks in the bottom where they will not block drainage holes. Placing smashed pop cans or upside down pots will take up space in the pot so less soil will be required in huge pots. If you are concerned about a little soil coming out of the bottom of the pot place a coffee filter or piece of landscaping fabric in

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Choosing Edible Houseplants

What can you grow as a houseplant that you can also eat? First: What would you eat?  If you aren’t going to eat it then why grow it? How much light do you have? You may have more light than you think. Note what times of day you get light and for how long. Generally direct sunlight is not required. My Aloe always bleaches out in direct sunlight. All of my plants receive less light than at my previous homes due to my plant room facing East and large trees outside. The plants listed can be grown in more light than as listed but won’t do well in less. The only time I have used artificial lighting is when starting seeds. If you don’t have much light: Spinach Chives Arugula Mint Cilantro Chervil Parsley Lettuce Beet greens Bok choy Celery Kale Peas Swiss Chard Medium Light: Ginger Turmeric Lemongrass Rosemary Banana Sweet Potato – vine Pomegranate Higher light: Basil – an annual but if you can delay flowering long enough you may be able to keep it around for awhile Aloe Vera (Yes, it is edible. See Herbs To Grow) Choosing edible houseplants Pepper in bloom Choosing Edible Houseplants Lemon almost ready to harvest Salvia including Sage and Pineapple Sage Scented Geranium – rose, lemon, peppermint, and more Thyme Oregano Savory Most fruiting plants including Peppers (yes, they are perennial and are grown as an annual in many climates because they freeze) Tomatoes – smaller varieties such as patio types would be better for most of us since the plants are smaller. The size of fruit has no relationship to the size of the plant. (perennials same as peppers Avocado Lemon Lime Grapefruit Orange Squash (bush style unless you have room for a vining type) My edible houseplants include three

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